Since my last post, I've been Soldering on with the with the DIY G Scale LH R3 turnout. "Illiterate idiot" I here you say! Almost but not quite, that's exactly what I've been doing and have completed the frog and wing rails/closure rails.
The frog wing and closure rails finally become one piece.
Prior to cutting back and cleaning up.
Now I consider soldering a black magic art. In the early 1980's and for a short period, I worked for what was Fidelity Radio/Pye in North Acton, London, where I rectified faulty circuit boards. The problem was I could diagnose and fix the circuits but when it came to soldering them up, I destroyed more boards than I fixed. As I said, "for a short period"! Still, at least I made it into an episode of the BBC's Play School.
Now my soldering talents have not matured over the years and it still terrifies me, so from the off I considered this whole project doomed but what the hell, the worst I could do is give it a try. My first hurdle was to solder the crossing V together and I must say, to my surprise, that went pretty well considering.
The crossing V soldered and prior to cutting, shaping and clean up.
That is, until I needed to solder it to a baseplate. Rather than bring the rails together symmetrically, I used the old fashioned method of just slapping it on the side, which leaves a big void to fill with solder, between the top and bottom of the rails. Now to solder this V onto the baseplate, it would mean re heating the whole assembly, which ultimately led to the separation of the V on at least 3 occasions but I got there in the end.
The crossing V finally soldered to the baseplate, the lower rail would be cut back later.
But there was more to come, I now needed to solder the wing/ closeure rails too and once again, my work was coming unstuck upon reheating. I finally managed to get one wing rail done and spent quite a while with a 30W iron patching up the affected area's. Cue a year's worth of disillusion and procrastination!
Giving up the ghost.
At this point, someone will be reading this and thinking "That's because you used to much heat". True in a sense but the rail is heavy gauge brass and the heat dissipates along the length's quite quickly, so a 30W iron is useless in this scale and the 80W is about the minimum you can get away with.
So a year on, it's time to have another go and with major apprehension, solder up the second wing rail. Enter Bob Symes, aka Bob Symes-Shutzmann or Robert Symes. "WHO?" Some of you will be shouting.
At 46 I begin to wonder if "Ignorance is bliss" or is it age and memorized junk interfering with the good memory? Whilst scrolling through YouTube, I came across a long unremembered BBC TV series from the 1970's or my childhood, called Model World. "Ah ha" I thought, haven't seen that in year's and watched the lot, followed by The Model World of Bob Symes and Model Railways With Bob Symes.
Now the first two programmes encompass virtually all genre's of modelling, exactly my kind of thing and it was whilst revisiting my childhood, I discovered the use of solder paint. Previously I had been using standard solder in a tube and the tinning method. For people of less expertise like me, solder paint is a liquid mix of solder, flux and etch paint, you simply brush on and heat up the metal but don't confuse it with Solder Paste, two totally different things!
The secret weapon!
The prices of a 30ml pot of this stuff is expensive (there are smaller bottles) and prices vary greatly, so it pays to shop around. Always check the P&P, you will be amazed at how many retailer's advertise stuff cheap but add the extra on to the postage! I got mine on the internet from Railroom Electronics, £13.00 all in.
Ooh I love this stuff and lesson learnt!
Soldered in minutes, not hours and no separation elsewhere!
The eagle eyed amongst you will notice the gold of the brass has turned to a bronze colour on the wing rail. This has nothing to do with the solder paint and is good sign that the brass has heated well and that should(!) mean a good bond. All that needs doing now, is to trim the baseplate back, clean up the area with some wet and dry, and yes that will bring the brass back to it's normal colour. So onwards and upwards, I now have a frog with wings, next stop the turnout blades.


